Etchells buying guide
Details about the boat:
1. Get the hull #, should be on a plaque on the aft bulkhead. The early ones were oval, later ones are square. Also the number should be carved in the wooden king-board (keelson) by the foot of the mast. Knowing the number, you can begin to compare the boat's price to other boats from sale of the same vintage, recognizing of course that even similar vintage boats can vary dramatically in quality.
2. Get a copy of the Hull & Spar Certificate. That will give you information details about the boat when it was constructed.
3. Ask if the boat was ever sailed at a Worlds competition. This will tell you what the boat weighed more recently. The Class minimum is 1508 kgs., or 3,317.6 lbs.
4. Ask about the last time the boat was registered with the US Etchells Class Association. This is useful because the class keeps information on each boat.
Deck:
1. Make sure the trailer under the bow has a jack or stand to prevent the bow of the boat tipping, then walk around the deck to check for soft spots. While some deck flexing is normal, anything more than a 1˛2” when you put 180 to 200 lbs. That might mean that area of the core that is soft and rotting. It can be fixed, but you need to be willing to put the time in to fix it yourself or hire someone else to do it. Figure that into the price.
2. Look under the deck to see the condition of the bolts and nuts securing the hardware. If you see a dark brownish color around the bolt, it is possible that there is some moisture in the deck core. Wet balsa core seems to secrete that color moisture.
3. Spin the blocks and tug on the lines, looking for wear on the fittings. Most Harken blocks run $15 to $40 to replace.
1. Check for water in the bottom of the hull. The drain plugs are small, and after a couple of months they can get blocked and fill the bilge with water. This means the king-board gets soft and won't hold any screws of blocks, plus it may eventually need to be replaced.
2. Open up the inspection hatches in the forward and aft bulkheads. There should be a drain hole in the bottom of each bulkhead. If not, you will find water in these compartments.
3. Look for patches inside the hull and deck repairs. You will find that most boats have had repairs; check to see how well the repair was done.
4. On the outside of the hull, look for blisters or, if the hull has been repainted, paint that is chipping. If the hull has been repainted, be sure to ask why. Sometimes it's just for cosmetics. Look for “spider” cracks about 4” down from the curve on the hull to the keel.
5. If you are going to wet sail the boat, find out if the hull has a “barrier coat” on it. This is a must. It will cost $2,000-3000 to have done professionally.
6. On the keel, check all edges. If you can, get the boat on a hoist to look at the bottom of the keel too. Minor dings and nicks can be repaired fairly easily.
7. On the rudder, look for separation where the rudder swings and attaches to the bottom of the skeg. All the edges should be smooth with no nicks.
Mast and boom:
1. Determine the mast maker by looking at the mast builders' label. Older masts are Kenyon, newer ones are made by Proctor. The latter tend to be newer and more highly valued for racing.
2. Inspect the mast around the vang and gooseneck areas for unfilled holes. These can lead to weakening in the aluminum and eventual mast failure. Check the boom for similar potential problem areas, paying close attention to where the vang attaches to the underside of the boom.
3. Inspect all halyards for wear. With the mast down, pull each halyard up all the way and inspect. Then pull it down all the way and inspect. That way, you'll see the entire halyard.
4. Look at the top of the mast at the halyard lock. It should be in good shape with the parts moving freely.
5. Look at the spreaders, they should be on an equal angle and the end fittings should be secure.
6. Run your hands along all the stays, you are looking for broken wires.
1. Get a list of the sails that come with the boat. You want at least 3 mains, 4 jibs and 3 spinnakers. This will give you a regatta set, a fleet racing set and a practice/heavy air set. Don't be impressed with large numbers of sails, unless they all happen to be new. Would you think a used car was a better deal if the owner threw in all the tires the car's ever had? The bigger question is, how many of them are recent?
2. What comes with the boat for spare parts? Lifting cable? Class-legal anchor? Anchor line? Paddles? Tow line? Although each is relatively inexpensive, the cost adds up quickly, and these are all must-haves for racing.
Trailer:
1. Does the trailer have a current registration? Is there a manufacturer plate on it? Is the trailer in a good condition to be registered?
2. Look at the ties for dry-rot. Does the trailer have rust spots, are the fenders in good shape, and is there a spare tire, any sail or parts boxes? Are the lights working? Look at the keel tray--is it solid, no rust?
3. Find out when the last time the wheel bearings were greased. If it's been a while, be prepared to do that or hire someone to do that before you tow it home.